Sunday, December 8, 2013

Solar Panel Payments Set Off a Fairness Debate

 




In California’s sun-scorched Central Valley, the monthly electric bill can easily top $200. But that’s just about what George Burman spent on electricity for all of last year.
Ann Johansson for The New York Times
Solar panels generating energy for a condominium complex sit atop a parking garage roof in Santa Monica, Calif.
When the sun is shining, the solar panels on his Fresno condominium produce more than enough power for his needs, and the local utility is required to buy the excess power from him at full retail prices. Those credits mostly offset his purchases from the electric company during cloudy days and at night.
Mr. Burman says the credit system, known as net metering, is a “very nice benefit” for him. But it’s not such a good deal for his utility, Pacific Gas and Electric.
As he and tens of thousands of other residential and commercial customers switch to solar in California, the utilities not only lose valuable customers that help support the costs of the power grid but also have to pay them for the power they generate. Ultimately, the utilities say, the combination will lead to higher rate increases for everyone left on the traditional electric system.
“Low-income customers can’t put on solar panels — let’s be blunt,” said David K. Owens, executive vice president of the Edison Electric Institute, which represents utilities. “So why should a low-income customer have their rates go up for the benefit of someone who puts on a solar panel and wants to be credited the retail rate?”
The net metering benefit, which is available to residential and commercial customers with renewable energy systems in more than 40 states and has helped spur a boom in solar installations, is at the heart of a battle. Utilities, consumer advocates and renewable energy developers across the country are fighting over how much financial help to give to solar power and, to a lesser extent, other technologies. Regulators are in the middle, weighing the societal benefits of renewables as well as how best to spread the costs.
Net metering has been so popular that several states are rapidly approaching regulatory limits on how many systems are eligible, meaning new customers have no assurance they can reap the same rewards. The solar industry, which is growing in size and influence, has been pressing to raise those limits to continue to encourage rooftop installations, while the utilities have generally been opposed.
In a closely watched decision that could influence the path of other states, California regulators decided last month to effectively double the amount of solar power capacity eligible for net metering. More than 60,000 people wrote to the Public Utilities Commission in support of raising the cap, which would allow new customers to continue being credited at a high rate for electricity they produce but do not use.
But representatives of the three major utilities that are covered by the decision said it would simply shift the fixed costs of maintaining the electric grid, which are embedded in electric rates, to other customers.
Other states, including New York, Massachusetts, Louisiana and Virginia, have also been reviewing their programs, which are transforming the fundamental relationship between customers and their utilities.
In Massachusetts, which pays net metering customers close to the retail electricity rate, lawmakers recently revised the tariff program to create separate caps for the public and private sectors. The Department of Public Utilities is currently seeking to clarify which entities, like schools and universities, should count against each cap, an issue of some urgency since the private limit is close to being reached.
Some states have also begun to impose new fees as they have increased the amount of power customers are allowed to generate and sell. When Virginia doubled the size of home systems eligible for net metering to 20 kilowatts last year, it allowed the main utility to start charging a monthly fee this year for owners with systems larger than 10 kilowatts.
The policy choices could have profound and lasting effects. The federal Department of Energy envisions a future in which a typical homeowner might feed power into the system from solar panels, small wind turbines or electric vehicles sitting idle in the garage, offsetting charges for power used at a later time and helping provide energy to the system during periods of high demand. Steven Chalk, the deputy assistant secretary for renewable energy, said that net metering was critical to realizing that future, “where users are very involved in what they’re using in terms of demand and what they’re also generating.”

Saturday, December 7, 2013

THE ELECTRIC CAR OPTION UTILIZING SOLAR

Electric Cars and Solar Power

We have a lot of customers that are looking to install solar on their homes and are also considering an electric car. We call this our Electric Car Option. Although we can’t help you get your new Tesla any faster due to the long lead times, we can help you generate the power so you won’t ever have to go to a gas station again.

Here’s how it works. From Wikipedia, I pulled the following information.

The Roadster is the first production automobile to use lithium-ion battery cells and the first production EV to travel more than 200 miles (320 km) per charge.

The world distance record of 501 km (311 mi) for a production electric car on a single charge was set by a Roadster on October 27th, 2009 during the Global Green Challenge in outback Australia.
According to an independent analysis from the U.S. EPA, the Roadster can travel 244 miles (393 km) on a single charge of its lithium-ion battery pack, and can accelerate from 0–60 mph (0–97 km/h) in 3.7 seconds. The Roadster’s efficiency, as of September 2008, was reported as 120 mpgge (2.0 L/100 km). It uses 135 W·h/km (21.7 kW·h/100mi or 490 kJ/km) battery-to-wheel, and has an efficiency of 92% on average.

So, let’s believe the EPA for a moment and assume that the Tesla can indeed go 244 miles on a single charge. How much electricity does a single charge require? Well, we go back to Wikipedia for an answer.

A full recharge of the battery system requires 3½ hours using the High Power Connector which supplies 70 amp, 240 volt electricity; in practice, recharge cycles usually start from a partially charged state and require less time. A fully charged ESS stores approximately 53 kWh of electrical energy at a nominal 375 volts and weighs 992 lb (450 kg).

A little math shows that 70 Amps x 240 Volts = 16,800 Watts or 16.8 kWatts. If we charge the car for a full 3 1/2 hours, we get 16.8 kWatts x 3.5 hours = 58.80 kWatthours.

Thus and Therefore, if we charge the car with 58.80 kWhs and we can go 244 miles then we get the result that the car requires 0.24 kWhs per mile.If you drive 30 miles per day, we can then assume that 30 miles/day x 0.24 kWhs/mile = 7.23 kWhs/day to run your car.

Well, how many solar panels are required to generate 7.23 kWhs/day. In general, a good rule of thumb is that one module will generate 1 kWh per day, on average, over the course of a year.
Approximately 8 solar modules will power your car 30 miles per day!!!

Conclusion
All this math adds up to one thing. It is and will become incredibly cost effective to power your car with solar panels. Right now, with State and Federal rebates cutting the cost of solar by about 40%, it is similar to having the government pay for half of your gas bill.
When thinking about putting solar on your home, consider the electric car option.

How to Shoot Down Your Energy Bill

Author Gary Fairhead
Nova West Solar Inc.
12/15/2013

In the typical house 38% of all lost heat escapes though leaks and cracks in the shell of the building. That's a lot of heat and money gone with the wind. A particularly drafty house might have the air completely replaced up to 10 times every hour. Ideally the air should only refresh once every hour or two.

Though it can be difficult to find all nooks and crannies where heat is on the way out, hunting them down and plugging them up can be the most cost-efficient way to lower your energy bills. Extra bonus: any steps you take to make your house warmer in winter will also serve to make it cooler in the summer by keeping heat out.

HUNTING FOR LEAKS

You have to be a bit of detective to seek out all the chinks where drafty air is slipping in. Experts recommend using a couple of lit incense sticks for this. Simply close all your doors and windows on a fairly windy day then light your incense. Take a tour of the house, holding your incense near potentially leaky spots to see if a draft is present. You can also pay to have a "blower door" test performed by a contractor.

Some of the more common entry and exit points to look for:

- Around doors and windows

- Cracks in walls (interior and exterior)

- Attic and basement doors

- Chimney damper

- Seal between roofing and chimney

- Seal between siding and eaves

- Spaces around wall switches and outlets

- Spaces around outside taps and any plumbing the penetrates the exterior walls

- Seal between the foundation and sill

- Any place where cables, phone lines or wiring enters house

- Any place that ducting or vents penetrate the walls

The good news is that increasing your home's energy efficiency by sealing up these energy sucking gaps is the cheapest and single most effective way to save money on your heating bill. Most repairs can be done with weather-stripping and caulking which are both inexpensive.

CAULKING

A caulking gun will take care of all the most conspicuous leaks like those around windows and doors. Make sure to plug up any holes that let cables into the house, any space around taps for the garden, and the often overlooked seals between the house and the roof and foundation. For really large gaps, staple plastic sheets over the space or stuff them with strips of insulation, wood, rubber, sponge or heavy rope first, then seal with caulking. Caulking materials are flexible, paint able and should last up to twenty years.

TIP: Aerosol foam can also be used to seal large gaps like those that can be found at the foundation.

WEATHERSTRIPPING

WINDOWS: Windows that open and close will also need weather-stripping around the sash. Metal stripping is a good choice that lasts a long time and can be used in conjunction with other types of stripping to get a good seal. Vinyl or foam rubber gaskets are also popular easy to work. Felt or foam rubber strips should be attached along edge of the sash that meets with the frame to create a tight seal when window is closed.

TIP: Hanging heavy drapery that blocks the chill is another way to reduce heat loss through your windows.

DOORS: Doors will need weather-stripping around the top and sides as well as a good seal at the bottom. Cheap felt or foam rubber strips work well around door jams to create a snug fit when door is closed. Vinyl or foam rubber gaskets or interlocking jam strips can also be used here. Drafts can be kept from sneaking under doors with an easily installed door sweep or door shoe. You'll probably have to take your doors off their hinges to do this job properly.

TIP: In addition to weather-stripping all doors that lead outside, be sure to seal any doors leading to unheated or rarely heated spaces like the garage, attic and basement.

BLOCKING OTHER ENERGY SUCKERS

CHIMNEY: make sure damper is closed tightly when you're not using the fireplace. If smoke can get out, so can warm air! Also check that the flashing is doing its job.

OUTLETS & SWITCHES: seal these with special insulating inserts that block air flow.

LIGHT FIXTURES: check for leaks and caulk or otherwise seal.